Crafts, home, home decor, interior design, Uncategorized

Tile (part 2)

In part 1 I painted the porcelain tile of my tub surround. Next came walls and trim and finally … the ceramic tile floor.

The sad, beige, mid-80’s tile was great when the bearded guy bought and installed it all on his own. And even better was the WHITE grout he used …. IN THE BATHROOM! Anyway, I digress. The tile has seen better days and it’s time for a change.

Now remember, part of my challenge is not to replace any flooring. So it must be painted.

Ceramic is a little different from porcelain as it is more porous, however, it’s a floor and will be walked on so it has to be durable. That’s where Tino comes in. Tino is my helpful associate in the FLOORING department at my local Home Depot. He recommended Custom MPB (Multi-surface Bonding Primer) to give me the grip I needed for the paint to adhere.

I was going for a handmade, concrete tile look.

To get that look, here’s what you’ll need.

You’ll need the Custom MBP, paint (preferably in gloss as it is the most durable), a stencil, painters tape, a roller and a stencil brush. I used the trim paint with the stencil. Here are the steps I took:

Step 1: Wash and rinse your floor to get all dirt and grease off.

Step 2: Tape the fixtures, baseboards, walls, etc. that meet the floor.

Step 3: Roll a thin layer of the Custom MBP on the floor. **This applies a gritty layer on the floor for the paint to adhere to. Try not to overlap as you roll to avoid creating uneven amounts of grit. If you have heavy spots you can sand them down after it dries.

ALSO – it is blue and will stain so don’t wear good clothing and be neat with your application.

Step 4: Roll your base colour evenly over the floor. Let it dry for 24 hrs and then give it a second coat. Let that dry completely.

Step 5: Apply your stencil pattern. I as really lucky to find a stencil that fit perfectly on 4 tiles. I used a stencil brush because I wanted an uneven, handmade look, but if you want a more precise pattern you can use a roller. Start with the tiles where you can use the full stencil pattern. And start at the furthest spot working toward the door so you can get out when you’re done.

Once you finish the whole tiles you’ll need to start cutting your stencil down to fit the spaces that are smaller. Plan that out carefully so you don’t run out of stencil before you finish. It’s a great idea to buy 2 of the same stencil to make sure you can fit all the spaces.

Depending on the foot traffic you expect you may want to apply a sealer. 2 coats. 1 North/South and 1 East/West to create a strong bond.

Here’s a tip for removing the tape when you are done. Score between the tape and the floor with an exacto knife or box-cutter as you pull off the tape. And pull slowly. This will avoid lifting spots off the floor that may not have dried completely.

And here’s the finished product!

I just love it! It feels good to walk on and finishes the room off perfectly. We’ve had it for about a month. We’ve dropped stuff on it, washed it, dragged things across it and we have no chips or scratches.

So be brave and go for it!!

home, home decor, interior design, nursery design

Tile (part 1)

I have to say that I am so glad people have realized that keeping the (almost) permanent fixtures neutral is the way to go. Things like flooring and tile.

We have been in our home for about 38 years and have lived through many decorating styles. It was built in the early 1970s when the colour pallet was Harvest Gold and Avocado Green. My tub surround was not really gold and not really green …. with a brown border. Ya … goes with NOTHING. The tragedy is that it is still in pristine condition. Perfectly white grout lines and no chips.

As per the challenge, can’t replace it … so it must be painted!

First let me tell you what not to do so you avoid my epic fail. I had painted a ceramic back splash in my daughter’s kitchen which only required a light sanding and primer before painting. This tile, however, is porcelain. Not porous and completely smooth. Nothing for the primer to adhere to, even after sanding. After literally washing the primer off the tile I decided to connect with the experts. I called my local Home Depot and spoke to Alanna in Paint. She told me what to use, that she had it in stock and that there was a very short line up to get into the store (just re-opened during Covid-19). I hopped in my car and raced right over. As per Alanna, here’s what I needed:

Step 1: Tent off the area you are painting as the spray WILL go places you don’t want it to.

Step 2: Lightly sand and wash the tile with CLR or another cleaner that will remove grease, rust and other water build up issues.

Step 3: Before spraying the whole area, do a test spot in an area easy to hide. If that spot works spray an even coat of the Rust-oleum Tub & Tile all over the tile. It doesn’t have to be a thick coat. What this does is create a texture on the tile that will allow the paint to adhere to it. Let that dry overnight.

Step 4: Paint your tile! Gloss paint is the best for this application as it is the most durable. Apply a coat with a roller and let it dry overnight, if possible. Apply the second coat and let that dry and you’re done!

Voilla! Fresh, “new” tile. It even covered the porcelain soap dish.

The Rust-oleum product will work on the tub as well, however, we’ve decided to leave that to the experts and have it re-glazed professionally.

I hope this helps relieve some of the fear you might have if you are considering trying this. The prep is key so don’t skip it. Good luck and happy painting!